The global denim industry needs a fresh start, literally.
All roads point to an autumn-winter 22-23 season filled with refreshing cool blues, icy surfaces and atmospheric finishes, according to Manon Mangin, fashion products manager at Première Vision. In a webinar for Denim Première Vision’s Digital Denim Week, Mangin outlined key fabric and fit trends for the season, citing otherworldly Nordic landscapes as a key inspiration for five categories.
Despite pressures from the pandemic, Mangin said the supply chain offers customers more advanced eco-friendly developments and products that are both attractive and sustainable. “[It is a] season strongly marked by renewal with more fantasies than the past seasons ”, she declared. “A high impact season rich in choice of colors and decorations. “
Discover the five themes to know about Denim Première Vision for F / W 22-23 fabrics and the key cuts to follow.
A seasonal palette of blues serve as the basis for Blue Ice, a trendy story based on visual effects and washes that give denim a delicate, soft look.
Cool colors, Mangin noted, pair with off-white denims, which add a touch of icy whiteness or “cloudy condensations” to fabric surfaces. Laser is used to emulate a “vaporous” appearance on fabrics and labels, while marbled denim and other treatments like “dabbed on the surface” paint enhance the appearance of 100% cotton fabrics. The fabrics contrast with the smooth, matte metal hardware.
“The contrasts continue with light and shadow,” Mangin said. Lightweight, eco-friendly, aniline-free washes create calm color transitions on linen and BCI cotton blend fabrics. The lightness, she added, contrasts with darker shadows on the pockets, seams and belt loops.
Bolder contrasts, meanwhile, are used to create a “deceptively cut-out look,” which Mangin says is achieved by bringing together deep indigo fabrics with washed out blues.
The “natural side of denim” is revealed in Polar Lights, a theme Magnin says focuses on natural fibers, 3 × 1 constructions, and colors inspired by the elements of Earth. Recycled fabrics overdyed in shades of brown, ocher, scorched earth and golden yellow lend themselves well to the high-end market. Colors are obtained with traceable biosynthetic dyes made from natural waste.
Orange, she added, is an “absolute must-have” for working with indigo undertones. The warm color combination is found in accessories such as zippers and copper rivets. In general, accessories brighten up dark surfaces, she says. Labels made from recycled synthetic materials, white and matte leather labels with eco-friendly finishes and components playing with reflective properties live here.
The fabric compositions are also inspired by natural elements. Linen and lyocell blends provide a dense but supple feel with antibacterial properties. “Hemp is a dominant material this season, widely used in compositions with blends of up to 30 percent fibers that combine easily with post-industrial recycled cotton, recycled polyester and BCI cotton,” Mangin said. .
Fantasy sums up the premise of Icy Scenery, a theme that Mangin says offers “bold visibility, confident colors and patterns inspired by the far North.”
Fading washes, intense shades of blue, flowing color effects with certified organic dyes, and long-lasting ’80s-inspired bleaching effects mimic aerial views of glaciers. These techniques add a unique type of personalization to clothing, she said.
Laser printing is used to mimic the look of cracked ice and the engraving of ice skates on jeans, while jacquards bring graphic organic patterns to life. The laser printed flowers are also used to add a botanical vibe to the theme.
Northern Furs emphasizes the comfort factor of denim.
Fabrics are double-sided with velvety colored backs visible through the twill construction. Lyocell blends with brushed back have a soft “melting” feel. Viscose and cashmere lend sophistication to denim, while wool blends and corduroy create tactile surfaces. The dense, soft fabrics provide a “cocooning spirit,” said Mangin.
Other fabrics take a more literal approach to fur with shaggy hair, 100 percent cotton constructions, and needle punches that add irregularities to surfaces.
The color also reinforces this feeling of comfort. Grayish undertones of white blend with deep indigo and gray denim contrasts with pale blues.
Ink denims made with blends of cotton, lyocell and polyester live on in Starry Night, a theme that draws on dark undertones to create dramatic effects.
Dark blue and black over tints revealing a hint of indigo add depth to the fabrics. The fabrics are brightened up by accessories with paper or rubber labels in vivid shades of red and yellow.
The theme is also home to most of the season’s stretch denims. “The elasticity is back,” said Mangin, as an environmentally friendly recycled spandex blended with organic cotton. Fluid lyocell-blend fabrics that “wrap around the body” are another way to provide freedom of movement. This allows the denim to be “free from any constraint,” she added.
Cuts and styles
Glacial fabrics and winter constructions come together in a collection of fits and silhouettes that rely heavily on functionality.
The F / W 22-23 work jackets and pants in “more whimsical colors” give the basics a modern look, Mangin said. Straight cuts, high waists, patch pockets and seams that structure the jackets across the torso are key design elements. These are especially important for rigid 3 × 1 constructions designed for durability.
The color also updates the utilitarian silhouettes, which Mangin says stand out for the F / W 22-23, thanks to “meticulous” details like the triple topstitching, corozo buttons and mustache effects on the back. back of the legs.
That inspiration, she said, continues with various quilts and faux inserts placed on fitted shirts that are more about aesthetics than technical benefit.
“Comfort is the real goal,” Mangin said of the finished fabrics. “Tall waists, wider legs, and longer clothing that pulls away from the body provide breathability and ease,” she said.
Expect to see these flowing pieces paired with short, straight jackets with personality. Jackets are a canvas for the shaggy or striped fabrics of the season.