Another runway season is upon us, as we look to New York, London, Milan and Paris for the Spring/Summer 2023 collections.
After the past two years of pandemic-related disruptions and cancellations, we’re ready for a relatively normal month of performances – apart from in London, which coincides with the official period of national mourning, following the passing of Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II. While shows like Harris Reed, Erdem and Christopher Kane are still set to run, a number have had to be rearranged due to closures in the capital, particularly on the day of the funeral itself.
In New York, we have Fendi celebrating the 25th anniversary of the iconic Baguette, alongside the latest collections from Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford, while we can expect new season shows from Versace, Prada and Giorgio Armani in Milan, and Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton in Paris.
Below, check out highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections to date:
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Michael Kors transported guests to the front row in the ultimate luxury getaway for its Spring/Summer 2023 “urban resort” show – a collection of sleek urban style against a backdrop of lush greenery.
“To me, urban resorts are the best of both worlds, it’s the luxury and sleek elegance of city living with the casual glamor found in the best resorts,” says Michael Kors . “This collection uses many elements you normally find on vacation – lots of white, lots of nude, soft caftans, strappy nude sandals – mixed with the crisp fit and polish you need in an urban environment.”
The focus was on movement and light, accentuated by shimmering liquid fabrics and high-shine sequins, delivering the kind of streamlined glamor the brand has become known for – designed to be worn in any luxurious destination. where you fly. next.
Fendi opened New York Fashion Week this season with a show celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Baguette – and creative director Kim Jones, along with Silvia Venturini Fendi, have recruited an impressive list of collaborators for the occasion: Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker and Tiffany and company.
“I didn’t want to do a traditional ‘collection’ for the anniversary – it’s more of a celebration of an era, of when the Baguette became famous,” Jones said. “I associate this period with a feeling of excessive freedom and pleasure – two qualities that the Baguette possesses.”
The result was a joyful homage to the iconic piece – as interpreted by each of the creative collaborators – spanning both apparel and accessories: from classic handbags to tiny clutches, bracelets, pins and even jewelry.
“The Spring/Summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experiment freely and to strip everything down,” explains Tory Burch, of her 90s-inspired show that put material and silhouette at the forefront.
Models including Emily Ratajkowski walked in luxurious fabrics designed to follow the body’s movements in an “exploration of form” – think ultra-fine knits, sporty pieces, sculptural cuts and translucent layers – all accentuated with clean lines and solid colors. “This collection is personal and intuitive, tapping into my memories of the 90s when I moved to New York,” the designer continued. “I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now.”
takeaway trend: translucent fabrics
Frances Hodgson’s much-loved classic, The secret gardenwas the starting point for Wes Gordon’s latest collection – a beloved book from his childhood – and his romantic depiction of nature and beauty.
“A garden of visual delights, this collection is decidedly romantic, with oversized balloon sleeves in hand-painted tea roses and peonies and maximalist verve through matching head-to-toe accessories,” reads the notes of the parade. Indeed, flowers played a central role everywhere, from 3D rosettes and brightly colored prints to sculptural hems “that come to life by themselves in motion, like undulating rows of blooming flowers in abundance.”
takeaway trend: romantic flowers
Tommy Hilfiger returned to NYFW this season with the Tommy Factory multiverse experience, featuring both a star-studded podium (Ashley Graham, Lila Moss, Winnie Harlow, Julia Fox) and front row (Kate Moss, Kris Jenner, John Legend) .
The show, which “blended the IRL and URL worlds”, was inspired by the legacy and cultural impact of Andy Warhol, and saw a (very soggy) physical track, accompanied by a virtual livestream peppered with avatars. The collection itself, which “remixed traditional Americana codes with a contemporary, streetwear-inspired twist,” included everything from the new TH Monogram (created in partnership with illustrator and graphic designer Fergus Purcell), to of the new collaboration with London Fashion Week. favorite Richard Quinn.
takeaway trend: sporty streetwear
Jason Wu’s latest collection celebrated the joy of dressing up and the post-pandemic renaissance of America’s fashion capital, New York, the place the designer called home for 22 years.
In homage to great American designers, the garments have been designed to showcase the beauty of each garment’s interior through inside-out construction, creating a key detail that is found throughout the collection. “People are dressing up again and now every moment is a moment and why wouldn’t it be?” said Wu. “If the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that these moments are fleeting and every second should be celebrated.”
takeaway trend: construction upside down
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were inspired by water “as a symbol of life” for their Spring/Summer 2023 show, with a collection also heavily influenced by their personal stories.
“The sensual and fiery qualities of Lazaro’s Latin roots combined with the pragmatism and courage of Jack’s American experience combine to create a narrative that is both effervescent and urban,” she explains. The garments accentuate the contours of the body, with form-fitting mesh, ruffles to add volume and fringe to exaggerate movement.
takeaway trend: haute couture fringes
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